San Antonio de Areco / the littlest hobo

Between Rosario and Buenos Aires is the small town of San Antonio de Areco, which is supposed to be 'ground zero' for gaucho (argentine cowboy) culture. Indeed the views from the bus ride across the northern pampas fitted the bill: plenty of livestock, small windmills and tractor dealerships made us feel like we were in the american midwest - an illusion only shattered by the occasional palm tree. Although we hadn't originally planned to stop here, we thought a brief stay in the country (between Argentina's two biggest cities) would provide a brief respite from the urban jungle. plus there was an opportunity to camp by the river near the middle of town, and by this time i had started to grumble about carrying a tent that we might never use.



San Antonio was a lovely town full of arty types and interesting cafes and shops (Hannah bought a cow hide here for a song!) which made up for the touristy nature of the 'gaucho' offering. However as well as managing to accomodate two people and all their stuff in the world's smallest two-man tent (Damn you, Millets!) we will remember the town for its stray dogs, particularly the one who not only chose to sleep next to our tent, but also followed us all the way into town the next morning. She then dozed peacefully while we drank coffee and juice, waking just in time to follow us again as we attempted to leave very quietly (By this time we had been trying pretty hard to get rid of her!). Even our entering the church by one door and leaving by another didn't faze this mutt (obviously this trick had been tried before!) but eventually we managed to lose her. It was only when walking back to the campsite that we bumped into our friend again, who looked as though she had been waiting for us! (On the corner of the road that we had to take).

The next day a slightly mangier dog followed us all the way back to the bus station. I swear that were it not for the ticket inspector the damn thing would have hopped on too.

Robin