I just re-read my last post (on Agra) and realised it didn't sound terribly positive! To be honest I think I was becoming a little tired of simply being a tourist (and of course, with my pasty white skin, it's SO obvious to all and sundry that that's what I am). A little respite was in order. And that's more or less what I got in Delhi - staying with Hannah i.e. someone who is not primarily a tourist here, allowed me to see some different sides of today's India.
That's not to say I didn't do any sightseeing. But not before a day of chilling out in the relatively upscale environs of South Delhi. Hannah's flat is actually inside a gated community, which sounds ridiculous until you realise that that is how most of the middle classes live. Hannah and her flatmates are not the only westerners present in their 'enclave' but I would say that their neighbours are probably about 99% Indian. The word 'gated' is probably overstating things a bit too: there are gates, but people pretty much come and go as they please. There is a bevy of security guards, who seem to mostly spend the night hours blowing their whistles at each other. I'm not sure how effective a method this is for preventing crime but hey what do I know.
Anyway, the sights. The modern Lotus Temple was the first 'sight' seen. Built in the 1980s it bears a passing resemblance to Sydney Opera House - the 'shells' of the roof were built the same way (post-tensioned concrete, fact fans... it is my job to know this sort of stuff!). The temple serves the Baha'i faith (look it up on Wikipedia) and as such is open to anyone of any religious persuasion. It was very peaceful inside, a real haven from the madness of the streets outside.
I paid the obligatory visit to India Gate and walked down Rajpath, the broad grassy avenue that leads to the parliament. It was so stinking hot that I was grateful for the shade provided by the trees, and twice stopped to sit down for a bit! Walking on the grass had the added benefit of putting myself slightly beyond the reach of the dodgy auto-rickshaw drivers who ply the streets of central Delhi. Typically there's never an auto around when you want one, and when you don't, there are hundreds!
The tomb complex of Humayun - one of the islamic Mughal emperors of India, was worth a visit. In the evening we had dinner at Karim's in the nearby quarter of Nizamuddin which is a very islamic affair: meaning that after lots of vegetarian meals meat was very much back on the menu! Mmmm, afghani-style barbecued chicken...
The Red Fort was OK; beautiful ancient pavilions inside, but the rest of the complex is falling to bits. And much of it is inaccessible.
The National Museum, with its air-con, provided a respite from the afternoon heat, and was interesting in a 'should really be more impressive' kind of way. To be fair there is a lot of renovation going on there, so they should be able to lift their game a bit. Outside I saw a troop of monkeys clamber over some of the exhibits. That was a nice reminder that I really was in India!
So what about the other sides of today's India? Although Hannah's current job pays poverty wages she showed me how the upwardly-mobile residents of South Delhi shop and 'pass-time': at places like 'M-block' market and Khan Market. At both of these there was a curious mix of the old and the new: spotless stores for western brands like Adidas and Puma, while just outside there might be a guy cutting keys on the street with just a metal file and good eyesight. Sometimes the mix works, other times it works less well. I saw this sign at 'M-block' market, and I'm still not sure what to think!
At Khan market I got myself measured up for a suit. The quality of Indian tailoring is very high and the cost of it is very low, so you can get a decent suit made up in almost any style you want for only a little more than the cost of the fabric. Fabric-wise you can spend whatever you like; I plumped for a very fine English wool. Not the cheapest but who cares. I'm due back for a fitting on Friday.
I also became far more skilled at bargaining with auto-rickshaw drivers, after Hannah tried to teach me some basic Hindi. I can now get them to go left, right, or straight on (after my painful ride from New Delhi station, I took to carrying a city map around with me!).
I can also say that I want to go somewhere and ask 'how much?'. Unfortunately I don't understand the reply if its in Hindi, but English is often used for numbers so this isn't too difficult. The international language of a cross face or a thumbs up works well, although I haven't mastered the odd Indian side-to-side head nod yet!
I also got a bit braver with the food, even digging in to a lunch with my fingers, using roti to capture the dhal and paneer curries that we'd ordered. Hannah showed me the way... it's not too difficult but it is messy... make sure hands are clean and don't hold your food with the left hand even if it is clean - this is considered bad manners, and if you don't know why I'm not going to tell you!
Ultimately it was good just to take some time to chill out in South Delhi; as it's not a tourist area I got zero hassle - so when I was out I felt like I could let my guard drop a bit and be more inquisitive, so I might actually learn something. In the more touristy places showing an interest can lead to all kinds of scams, which is unfortunate. I can't help thinking that more tourists would come to India, and would probably spend more money, if there weren't so many shysters about...
So now I have about two weeks left in India, and to escape the heat of the plains I'm heading up to the temple towns and hill stations at the edge of the Himalayas. First Haridwar, then see what happens! I'll be back in Delhi on Friday for the suit fitting, and then I'm thinking about flying to Goa for my last week... it's not that it's convenient for Delhi (I have to return to Delhi for my flight back to London) but I think this might be my last chance to get some beach action before the northern hemisphere summer...!
Robin
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